Early mornings in Tehran are the best. This time I was waiting for some friends of mine to go have breakfast. I was early, they were late. I ordered ab havitsh (fresh carrot juice) and sat down on the curb. Traffic was minimal - Friday is the religious holiday - and the smell of last nights rain was still in the air. My good friend Narges, one of Tehran's greatest performance artists, showed up and we shared the silence of a sketch session. She wrote a lovely message.